Saturday 14 December 2013

STYLE GUIDE: THE BLACK TIE LOOK



It's a black tie event, states your invitation. Do you go into a tizzy wondering how to decipher "black tie" or do you think about making a style statement? The answers to both questions are, don't! A black tie event needn't be deciphered and it certainly isn't a place to make any statements. Black tie refers to a particular dress code that you adhere to. MensXP simplifies black tie and tells you how to accessorise your suit, too. As always, we focus on attention to detail, which is the essence of a black tie event.

It's A Code

Black tie refers to a traditional tuxedo that's worn with a dinner jacket, trousers, a waistcoat (optional), a formal shirt and a bow tie. Finish off your look with black socks and formal black shoes. Let's take a look at the specific qualities that each of these pieces of clothing call for.

The Jacket

A black or midnight blue woollen jacket is the norm. It can be either a single-breasted jacket or double-breasted jacket, depending on your body structure. Since this is tuxedo, shawl lapels are best-suited, however, you can even have a peaked lapel. Ensure that you have satin on your lapels, you pockets are flapless and your jacket has no vents at all.

Black Tie Look

© Shutterstock

The Shirt

A crisp white shirt with a turndown collar and French cuffs is the way to go. Your collar points should be hidden behind your bow tie. This shirt is fastened closed with studs, not buttons. These studs have to match your cufflinks, which are generally black, gold or mother-of-pearl.

The Trousers

Your trousers should have the same material as your jacket. It should also have a single braid along the outside seams that should match your lapel facings. These trousers are meant to be worn with a cummerbund or a waistcoat so there's no bothering about a belt here. These trousers with sit around your midriff and should have pleated fronts.

The Waistcoat

Formal waistcoats are not the same as vests that you use under a regular suit even though they're called by the same name. The buttons on this waistcoat are low across the torso, leaving the front of the shirt visible. These waistcoats have their own lapels.

The Cummerbund

Cummerbunds are an alternate to waistcoats. In case you're wearing a cummerbund instead of a waistcoat, it should be made of black silk and should match your lapel facings. The pleats on your cummerbund should face upwards.

Black Tie Look

© Shutterstock

The Black Tie

Ideally, you must wear a black silk bow tie. This little piece of silk pretty much defines your entire outfit. The material of your tie should match the lapel facings on your jacket. Additionally, make sure that the ends of your bow tie fall anywhere between the outer corners of your eyes and the edge of your face. If it's too small, your head will seem larger than it really is and if it's too big, you'll just look ridiculous.
These days, a lot of men are opting for a black silk long tie. However, the long tie is best left for when you wear your suits; a tuxedo calls for a bow tie.

The Shoes

Black patent leather pumps are perfect; however, you can also wear black patent Oxfords. You've got to consider shoes for black tie events as an investment.
Now that you've got your black tie look down to a tee, let's take a look at what you should wear as outerwear for this ensemble.

The Overcoat

The Chesterfield coat is the most appropriate coat your can wear over your tuxedo. Choose between a black, midnight blue or Oxford gray coat. Ensure that the length is below your knee and that it has a black velvet collar. Whether it's a single-breasted coat or a double-breasted coat depends on your body structure and what suits you best.
Please remember that trench coats are a complete NO-NO.

The Pocket Square

Ensure that you have a neatly folded white pocket square in the tuxedo. Even though this is a small details, it's an important one and it's something you shouldn't ever leave home without.

The Scarf

A white silk scarf with tassels is perfect to complete your look. The contrast of black and white is compelling and the scarf completes your look.

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